DIY Mouse Paracord Kit Guide

Making your own paracord can be lots of fun and can help save you a little bit of money in the process. When purchasing a DIY kit from us, we give you everything you need to make your own cable, provided that you have the tools required for the job.

Tools Required

  • DIY supplies (paracord, wiring, heatshrink, applicable JST connector, JST crimping pins, USB terminal and housing)
  • soldering iron, solder
  • method of heating heatshrink to secure it (heat gun, blow dryer, etc.)
  • scissors, tweezers, pliers
  • 28-32awg wire stripper
  • precision JST crimping tool

If you purchase a DIY kit from us, we give you all of the "DIY supplies" listed above.


Tutorial Video

Coming soon!


Written Guide

Tips & Rules

Never use a lighter or open flame directly on the cable, mouse, or other components.

Make sure to place the USB hood and the heat shrink on the cable before you secure both ends.

Wires must be kept the same length to ensure proper connectivity and speeds. Wires must also not exceed 15 feet in length, the maximum supported range for USB 2.0. If you cut/trim your wires, make sure you keep them all the same length.

Always test the wires for bridges and continuity before using it on your device. A soldering mistake can easily damage or even completely break your device. Every good soldering station should have a multimeter.


Routing Wires through the Paracord

Routing the wires through the paracord can be pretty frustrating and time consuming. In our experience, the best way to route the wires through the paracord without any external tools would be to use some scotch painters tape, the blue/beige thin tape with weak adhesive.

Tape the 4 wires together with 3-4 of the inner nylon strands of the paracord, and lightly pull the nylon strands on the other end of the paracord to route the wires through the sleeving. Slide the paracord towards the taped wires to create a loose area of paracord for the wires to slide through easier.

If the wires are not pulling easily, do not tug hard - routing the wires through the cord takes much longer without using the inner nylon strands - and it will not be fun - so don't rush it!



Paracord Tightness and Fraying

Paracord is stretchy and can be slightly tightened and loosened around the wires. Do not tighten the paracord around the wires as tight as possible. Make sure that the paracord flows freely around the wires and the entire cable is flexible like a paracord should be before you make any cuts or changes to the paracord itself.

Paracord will fray on each open end when put under stress. To combat this, you can trim the frayed edges, and then use a lighter to "freeze" the ends of the paracord as you work on each side. It will stop the threads from fraying as you mess around with the paracord.

Do not place the cable directly into the flame. Place the cable near the flame, and rotate it around to burn the threads down, never directly into the flame. The threads will easily burn off without needing to be directly in the flame.



USB-A Pin Layout and Diagram

Once you have the wires routed, you need to strip around 2mm of wire insulation on both sides of the cable. Pick the lucky side for the USB and place the hood on it before you solder the terminal.

While all of the wires are technically the same, they are color coated for distinction. The order they are soldered on the connectors is what matters, not the colors. With our connectors, the wires must be soldered in the following order from left to right: +5V | D- | D+ | GND - this is usually depicted as red | white | green | black.


Red = VCC | White = Data- | Green = Data+ | Black = Ground

Make sure to use the correct order for your specific terminals, because they are not all the same.


At this stage, we recommend using an ohmmeter to test for continuity of the wires, if you happen to have one. You can also use it to test for any bridges between each wire after you finish soldering. You can easily brick your device if you bridge any of the wires together, better safe than sorry.



After soldering, place the terminal into the second part of the metal housing. Ensure that the terminal is placed correctly, with the inner terminal stuck to the side of the USB with the split down the middle, and the clear side empty on the inside.



Once completed, you can slide the paracord sleeving into the terminal cable holder, and tighten the notches with pliers. Try to get them as neat and flat as possible. After securing the cable with the wings, you can complete the housing by clipping the final smaller piece on. After that, you can slide up the hood (make sure to slide the USB indicator is on the correct side) and your USB terminal is complete!


Placing Heat Shrink

Before securing both sides of the cable, make sure your heatshrink is placed onto the cable. If you forget, you wont be able to place it later, so make not too forget to place it before you start crimping.



Crimping Wires

Before placing the wires into the JST connector, they must be crimped with crimping contact pins. The crimps ensure the wires cannot come loose from the JST connector and that the wiring makes proper contact with the male connector on the circuit board inside the mouse.

To complete the crimps, you need to use a JST contact crimping tool (we personally recommend the Engineer PA-09). If you have experience crimping, some people like to get creative and use a tool such as pliers instead, but we definitely recommend the crimping tool itself, especially if you don't have extensive experience with crimping.

For the JST 2.0 connector pins, we use 1.6mm for the inner wings. Then we slightly close the outer wings with the pliers on the front of the tool, and use the 1.9mm crimp to close the outer wings. Crimping can be annoying sometimes, so we always include some extra contact pins for you in case you mess up as much as we do.



If you mess up the outer wings, you can usually just use pliers to close it together. As long as the inner wings are crimped well and the outer wings fit inside the connector, you should be fine.


Configuring the JST Connector

Before placing the crimped wires into the connector, you need to ensure you place them in the correct order into the connector. Every mouse is different, there are many different types of connectors and layouts.

If you don't know what pin layout you need, please see our pin layout guide.

You place the crimped wires directly into the slots on the connector, and the crimping tin will automatically lock them into place.

This specific pinout is Ground (empty) | Black | Green | White | Red


If you place them incorrectly, you can remove them and rearrange them - you need to slightly lift the "tabs" on the JST connector to unhook the crimp pins, and gently pull the wire out of the connector. It should easily come out, so if your wire is not coming out, make sure the tab is pulled back enough. Once you have the wires out, place them in the correct order and set the tabs back into place.


Securing Heat Shrink

One heatshrink should be used near the JST connector, and one should be used on the cable exit of the mouse. If you have a tiny clear piece of heatshrink with your cord, it goes on top of the heatshrink exiting the mouse, to prevent the cable from being pulled out of the mouse.




The paracord should now be completed and ready to install in your device. Installation is different on every device, so we aren't able to make an installation guide for every single one. There are plenty of great guides out there to follow, and the general idea is usually the same for every mouse!

Be sure to share your completed cable in our Discord for a chance to be shared on our social media pages! You can also ask for help there if you need it along the way.